Shoe.



H. J. PERCY.

SHOE.

APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 9. 1910.

1,141 ,1 1 Patented June 1, 1915.

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SHOE.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known" that I, HERBERT J. PERCY, a

subject of the King of England, residing at Lynn, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain Improvements in Shoes, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification hke reference characters on the drawings indicating like parts in the several figures.

This invention. relates to shoes and particularly to welt shoes. 'In the manufacture of these shoes an innersole is used upon the bottom face of which from the heel seat around the forepart, is raised by channeling or otherwise, a lip or shoulder and to the outer face of this lipthe stretched or lasted upper is sewed, together with the welt by which the outersole is later to be connected to the shoe. The process of lasting or stretching the upper over the last and Working it into position to be secured is usually accompanied or followed by the application of 5 is commonly prepared by compression and molding to reduce flexibility and increase shape retaining qualities. These processes and the nature of the material are such that the stiffener is usually found to be hard and not readily penetrable and to have a smooth surface.

The attaching flange of the heel stiffener is molded, or is bent in the lasting operation, to lie flat down upon the heel seat .end of the innersole to which it isattached, together with the lasted-over upper, by lasting tacks. These tacks of the heel seat are permanent fastenings, fully driven and clenched on the sole plate or" the last, as contrasted with the lasting tacks of the shank and forepart which are only partially driven in anticipation of their withdrawal when their tour porary use has been fulfilled. The wings or sides of the stiffener extend forwardly beyond the heel seat and into the shank and the Specification of Letters Patent.

--Patented June 1, 1915.

Application filed September 9, 1910. Serial No. 581,178.

flange is included in the rear portion of the inseam, as the stitching is called which connects the upper and the welt to the innersole lip. In practice difliculty has been encountered in sewing the end portions of the inseam and in obtaining a snug fitting of the upper'of the finished shoe at these portions of each side of the shoe. The flange of the stiffener overlies the lip of the innei'sole and it bridges from the edge of the innersole up over the lip at a small angle to the path of the sewing machine needle and its hard smooth surface causes the needle to tend to slide along it without penetrating it. To lessen this tendency the operator changes the inclination at which he holds the shoe in order to present the hard material more nearly perpendicular to the path of the needle. In thus changing the inclination of the Work the shoe is fulcrurned on the lower end of the channel guide, which is located at the'inner side of the lip, and thereby the needle'is also caused to enter the stock higher up on the lip whereas it should sew the stitch close down at the foot of the lip in order to make a firm connectionwvith the inner-sole. The result is that the pressure applied to the shoe in the heel attaching operation spreads this loosely attached portion-causing a misshaping of the shoe at this point.f Special machines have been devised to tighten this stock over the last bottom, crush) it down while held tightened and tack it in place. Another diiliculty is that in stitchin'g'the first end of the inseam it is impracticable to get the sewing lIlSlZI'llllltlliilllilCSllltO pOSltlUIl to begin the inseam close up to the adjacent fully driven heel seat tack and again in stitching the last end of the inseam the Chan nel guide encounters the portion of the heel stiifener flange that is held down by the adjacent heel seat tack. This leaves a gap between the last stitch and the first tack, and the channel guide also frequently price up and loosens the tack. This adds to the need for retightening and further tacking which has come to be a general practice. By the present invention these manufacturing difiiculties are obviated or very substantially re duced and the shoe is materially improved in appearance and strength and in accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, certain additional manufacturing advantages are secured which will be later explained.

A very important feature of this invention consists in a heel stiffener having that, portion of its flange which is to be incorporated in the inseam formed to fit a ains t the outer side of the innersole lip. referably the stifi'ener is molded to shape a portion of its flange to lie flat upon the feather of the innersole and a portion to stand upright as a lipagainst the lip of the ,innersole. -The width of the flat portion shouldfor the best results correspond with the width of the feather. These molded I portions of the stiffener will preferably extend from the end of each wing back as far You the shoe as the innersole lip extends or toy 'the location for the first heel seat tack.

Another important'feature of this invention consists in ashoe stifi'ener having an i j abrupt edge to indicate the proper point for 20.

a subsequent operation upon the .shoe in which thestiifener is incorporated,--herein shown as formed by an incision made through the inner or marginal portion of an inturned flange of the stiifener between that portion of .the stiffener whichis to be I tacked down uponthe heel seat of the shoe and that portion which is to be sewed into the inseam. This incision, in the case of a stiffener'which includes an upturned lip' to stand against the rib of an innersole may advantageously form the division betweenv the upturned lip and the rear portion of the flange, thus avoiding the necessity for an abrupt bend in the flange.

betweenthe horizontal and upright surfaces of the innersole, and the corresponding faces of the flange, the use in this form.of.stifienerof an incision separating the upturned lip from the flat portion of the flange that is a of fastenings.

tacked down is a furtherim ortant advantage in the sewing operation. his separation enables the stitch forming devices to locate a stitch at the very end of the stiffener lip, which may be closely adjacent to the heel seat tack so as to leave no gap between the two kinds he inseam may also be continued to the end of the lip on the second side of the shoe, allowing the channel guide to pass out of the channel and over the tacked down portion of the flange without any interruption. The incisions in the stiflener flange may serve this purpose to a greater or less degree even without the additional. feature of turning up the portions of the flange infront of the incisions.

Another purpose of great practical importance served by the incisions as above described is that they constitutepredetermined starting and stopping points for the inseam. By the use of markings for the inseamer he inseam farther back on one side of a shoe than thepoint at which they terminate it on the other side and so necessitate extra .work in the welt .butting' operation. It willtherefore be understood that it is a broad feature of this invention to'provide a shoe with indications or marks to show the location for the ends of the inseam and that such marks or osition indications may be found in the. incisions or in the ends of the stifiene'r lips if no incisions aremade" and also such marks may take various other forms within this invention.

"A further advantage of this inventionis found in theshank stiffening effect. obtained by the upright longitudinally extendinglips of the heel stiffener at each side of the rear part ofthe shank. A shoe having this heel stiffener may be made with a lighter and cheaper shank stiffener.

The for oing and other features and-advantages 0 this invention will now be more fully' described in connection with'the accompanying drawin s and will then be pointed out in the c aims, except as. relates to the novel method herein disclosed which is claimed in a divisional application, Serial No; 644,498, filed Aug. 17,1911.

Figure'l is a plan view of a shoe havin the-upper materials, including the n'ovel'hee stiffener, assembled on a last, parts being broken away to show the new features more clearly. F1g.-2' shows the shoe after one side has been lasted and the other side lasted and the welting operation commenced','theneedle and thechannel guide of the sewing apparatus being shown in operative relation .to one another and to the work. ,Fig. 3' illustrates a portion of the last, heel stiffener, upper and welt showing the close fitting of the parts held by the inseam.

The last is indicated at 2, the innersole at i 4, the lip thereof at 5, and the feather at 6.

The present invention relates to novel formation of the front or wing portions of a [heel stiffener and in the broader aspects of the inventionthe rear or body portionof the stiffener may have any usual or suitable shape.

The front portions or the wings of the stiffener are provided with inturned flan es 8 and upturned lips 10 located inwa ly from the fold over the edge of the shoe bottom preferably a distance equal to the width of the feather of the innersole. The stiffener is thus provided upon its wings with portions that are adapted to extend upwardly above the plane of the heel seat and that stand inwardly away from the adjacent portion-ofthe upper of a pulled over shoe in position to facilitate the operation of grasping the flangeof the stiffener to pull up the wings. The lips 10 extend hackwardly from the front ends of the wings as far as the lips 5 of the innersole go and are. formed to fit smoothly against the outer face of said lips 5. In the illustrated embodiment of the invention the flange 8 is extended around the rear portion of the heel where it is moldedtolie subtantially flat upon the heel seat portion of the innersole, and the lip 10 may merge into the margin of the rear portion of the flange by a bendin the material but prefusual and-the upper materials may be secured in assembled relation for the pullingover and lasting operation by tacks located as shown in Fig. 1 or in any other suitable location. In the lasting operation the flange of the rear part of the heel stifi'ener is lasted down upon the heel seat end of the inncrsole and tacked, Fig. 2, as usual and also is lasted down upon the feather of the innersole.

while the lips 10 arelasted firmlyup against theiouter face of the innersole lips 5. The lipped formation of the flange enables it to conform closely to the angular faces of the feather and lip of the innersole instead of bridging from the innersole edge to the top of the lip as heretofore. When the shoe is presented to the Welter for sewing the inseam the needle 16 approaches the hard material of the heel stifi'ener lip 10 in a direction substantially perpendicular to the plane of said lipand readily penetrates it.

The lasting of the upper and the stiffener flange down into the angle between the feather and lip of the innersole permits the stitches to be sewed down in said angle so that a connection of the parts of the shoe by these stitches is made which is as firm as or firmer than-that at any other portion of'thc inseam. The upstanding lips 10, particularly when bound into place by the stitches. form an effectual stiffener forthe shank of the shoe because of the well known resistance offered by stiff sheetmaterial to lending e ewise. The incisions facilitate the commencement of the inseam witha stitch located at the very end of the lips 5 and 10 and close to the heel seat tack. The incision on the second side of the shoe where the inseam is ended enables the channel guide 18 to pass without obstruction out of the inner channel of the innersole and over the portion of the stiffener flange which has been tacked down. This prevents the channel guide from prying up the heel seat tack as heretofore and also it enables the inseam to be continuedto the end of the lips 5 and 10 thus attaching the upper completely without the interval which has'been necessary between the tack and the last stitch and which required the insertion of an upper fastening ta ck after the-inseam. sewing operation. Inasmuch as the operator has not been obliged to tip the shoe down over the channel guide as a fulcrum in order topresent the work so that the needle would penetrate the stock instead of sliding along the hard stiffener the stitches have been located close down at the base of the innersole lip and there is no'lo'oseness of the upper that the upper to bulge or spread outwardly under the heel attachingpressure because it is firmly attached'to the base of the innersole lip and cannot move outwardly as it could if attached to the upper edge of the lip which can tip sidewise. Another advantage isfound in the compactness of the stock at the shank and heel breast which is obtained by fitting the stiffener flange firmly down upon the innersole feather. This brings the upper and the welt nearer to the plane of the innersole, giving a closer rand crease and allowing the inseam to be trimmed more closely and alsoavoiding danger heretofore. existing of cutting the inseam stitches while trimming the inseam at the ends. A further advantage is in the use of the incisions 15 as guides for the operator in starting and finishing the inseam at predetermined points on each side of the shoe and at the same distance from the heel end of all shoes of the same size.

This purpose may well be served by the provision of an abrupt edge in the margin of the stiffener, however it may be formed; The incisions 15, or their equivalents, like the lips 10 may be made during the manufucture of the heel stifleners andc as a part of the molding or some other makingoperation. To mold a heel stiffener to present at its ends an upstanding lip extending backwardly as far as the lip of the innersole and adapted to stand against the outer face of the innersole whereby the stiffener uge conforms to the shape of the feather and lip when the stiffener is assembled in a shoe is a new step in the manufacture of shoes.

luring explained the nature of this invention and described how it may be employed I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States all the rotection to which the invention which I have disclosed is entitled over the prior art and the annexed claiming clauses are to be interpreted broadly as an attempt to define rather than to prescribe what the patent covers'.-=- T-.- 1

-1. A heel 'stifienerha an inturned flange the of which at t erear ortion of-the heelis ormedto'lie flatu on eheel seat and is coterminous with .t e stiffener, being turned-u wardly from ade breast line of t e heel t0 th6' ends of the stifienerto said. ed iacent present lips. for attachment to.'therear, portions of .a welt innersole turned an e that extends from the rear of the upstan g lip .on one end portion of' the stlflener around to the rear of the u standing lip of the other end ortion of e stiffener, said flanglebeing ormed to lie throughout its widt substantially flat upon the heel seat of a shoe and having itsinner edge coincident with the terminal edge of the stiflener. 1

4. A heel stifiener formedJopresent on a wing portion thereof an abrupt edge visible to the inseam sewing machine operator and located to serve as a guide for the operator in and terminating the inseam. 1 5.. A heelstifi'ener having an inturned flange and a li upturned from the edge of the flange at t e end portion of'each wing and terminating at a point remote fromthe rear end ofthe stifiener, each of said lips being separated by an incision from the edge to be tacke portlon of the flange in the ream-thereof;

6. A heel stiffener havinga flange with an opening formed therein at a. point between that ortion of the stiflener which is 8 down upon the heel seat and that portion which is to be sewed into the 'inseam,'whereby the channel guide of the sewing machine may pass through said flange and the inseam ma be continued to a point close to the tacke .down portion of the stiffener. 1

7. In a shoe, an innersole having a plane heel seat portion and an upstanding lip located at a substantial distance inwardly from the edge of the innersole and terminating at the heel seat, and aheel stiifener having at the front end of each wing an u standing lip formed and located relative y to the body of the stiffener to adapt it to stand against the outer face of the innersole lip, and an inturned flange extending around the edge of the heel seat and shaped to lie flatagainst the heel seat throughout the width of the flange.

be or ending t A. molded shoe stifie'ner having its entire bottom edge an inwardly proiectin flange and provided on the on po 7 flange with shoulders shaped to at each end portlon and an inv 7 turned flange shaped to 8, A lasted shoe to be welted provided on each side of the .heel portion withvan' up "standing lip of the bee wrearwardly fromithafront end-of the .stiif-i ener wing and terminating an point remote from the rear end of. the stifi'enerwith'an. I

abrupt end'face-inpositiontoindicate to thesewing machineo einseam. along 0 y of the fit against a riblformed on a shoe innersole. 10. A lasted shoe to be welted having, in

Jstifiener extending.

geratorifthe' point a 1 I vs l rtions Y feather and a welt and upper attaching rib,

and a shoe end stiifener having a flange extending from the bottom edge. of the stifiener w1dthwise of the stiffener and shaped as to lie flat upon the feather of the inner'sole throughout the width of said flange exceptwhere the flange encounters the innersole rib 1 and to, present adjacent to the rib an upturned portion she (I to fit snuglyagainst' the outer side of t e rib vsoas to permit a.

tight welt attaching seam to be sewed and prevent straining-the stitches of the seam after thesewing operation.

11. A heel stifl'ener having on its bottom portion an inturned flange provided near the ends of the stifiener wmgs with upstandinglips, that terminate at oints 'remote from the -rear end of the sti: ener, that witha plane heel seat portion and an upstanding lip located inwardly from the edge of the innersole and terminating at the heel' I x seat, and a heel stifl'ener having on its bottom at the front end of each wing an into provide'a subflat heel seat, at the rear of said I 1 '105 v 12. A shoehaving an innersole formedwardly projecting angular ortion shaped1 to fit closely in the angle ormed by said upstanding lip and the bottom of the inner-,

sole and secured to said lip by'a' row of stitchea'each of said angular portions terminating at a' point adjacent to the breast of the heel, said stifl'ener having at the rear of said angular portions aninturned flange shaped to lie flat upon the heel seat and coterminous with the edge of the stiflener.

13. A'molded shoe stifiener having onan' end portion thereof a flange projecting inwardly at the. bottom'of the stifi'ener and provided with an upstanding lip or edge )ortion that terminates at a points remote from the rear end of the stiflener.

14. A heel stifiener having on its wings molded portions, each comprising an inlie upon the feather" of an innersole and an upturned at the inner edge of the flange, -said portions of the stiffener extending from the front ends of the wings rearwardly and terminating at points remote from the rear end of the stilfener.

15. A heel stifi'ener having in its rear ortion a flange, including the inner terminal the inner edge of which is coincident with the terminal edge ofthe'stifi'ener,said flan e being shaped to lie wholly upon theinargin of the heel seat of a shoe, and the stifi'ener to having upon its wings portions sha stand substantially upright from the lane of the heel seat. P

17. A heel s tiflener havingloni each wing.

' a narrow inturned flangeshaped to lie down upon the feather of aiwelt shoe'innersole and to terminate at or adjacent tothe breast line of the heel-seat, said stifiener com rising stock of suitable width. to form, rom

' the termination of said narrow flange on one wing around the heel seat'to the beginning of the narrow flange on the other wing, a relatively wider flange adapted to be tacked down upon the heel seat by the usual last ing tacks located inside the location for the heel attaching nails of the shoe.

18. A heel stifl'ener molded to present at the front end of eachwing a lip formed and located relatively to the body of the stiffener to adapt it to stand against the outer faceof the innersole lip'and terminating at a point remote from the rear end of the stiffener.

19. Alasted shoe comprising an innersole and upper materials including upper stock and a heel stiffener, said shoe having a portion of the upper materials standing up from the plane of the innersole face and provided with an abruptedgeelocated in position to be visible to the inseam sewing machine 0 erator while holding the shoe with its si e face toward him and designating that oint in the length of the shoe at which to gin or end the inseam.

' 20. In combination, an insole having ribs terminating at the heel portion thereof, a counter stiffener. having a seat arranged to engage the marginal e'd e of the heel portion of the insole and exten 'ng to. and engaging the rear ends of the ribs, narrow seats located on the s'tifiener inwardly beyond said first named seat, and arranged to engage those portions which lie between the ribs andthe lateral edges of the insole and vertically straight attaching flanges located at the mner e es of and arranged at right angles to said narrow seats, said' flanges lying flush with the outer sides of the ribs and having a greater vertical extent than said ribs.

In testimony whereof l have signed my 5 name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing. witnesses. V

HERBERT J. PERCY.

Witnesses: r EDITH C. Honnnoox, ARTHUR L. RUssELn. 

